As may be expected from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has experienced many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair along with a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented with a floppy fringe and a suit. But while some of his efforts to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the newest part of the Biebvolution is in fact bang on the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and many raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment at the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that may be sweeping through menswear – and could be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
To put it briefly: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You could dub it a hot mess males, but the thing you will never call it is hipster – manicured beards needs to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore on the teen awards, has become integral to the increase in demand for denim and of jeans which are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look that creates parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to set proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that were roughly stop with the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; close up, the holes during these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in all the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers popular, these pictures have got a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you can also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, while the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been all over probably the most talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that has been located in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. A lot of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is merely set to go on: right after the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is an additional of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed up by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, however, not.
In fact, if all else fails, the real key to the look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, in which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all somewhat Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, mainly because it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the contrary of all of the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear within the last few years. And lastly, it’s simple to chuck on, doesn’t look like you’ve made an endeavor but suggests you are aware of what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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